Durum Wheat vs Soft Wheat: All About Wheat Flour

Wheat flour, spelt, emmer, durum wheat, and soft wheat. Behind a single ear of wheat lies a vast and millennia-old world, full of craftsmanship and passion. This guide from Pizzeria Fra Diavolo will explore the world of flour, from its historical origins to cultivation techniques, including the milling of the grain and the uses of various types of wheat flour.

Wheat: A Brief History

Wheat, known as wheat and historically referred to as triticum, is a plant from the grass family, inextricably linked to the development of human and social history on Earth. One of the oldest crops in history, the first traces of wheat cultivation date back to 12,000 BC in the region known as the “Fertile Crescent,” which includes vast areas between Palestine and Anatolia, surrounded and watered by the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. Compared to other crops, wheat requires more care, which led ancient populations to settle in specific areas.

Wheat Flour and Wheat Flour: Let’s Clarify

What is the difference between wheat flour and wheat flour? Absolutely none!

Wheat and wheat are biologically the same plant, and the two terms are merely synonyms of each other.

However, there are five different types of wheat:

  • Durum wheat (triticum turgidum durum)
  • Soft wheat (triticum aestivum)
  • Spelt (triticum spelta)
  • Emmer (triticum monococcum)
  • Farro medio (triticum dicoccum)

According to EU regulations concerning labeling, presentation, and advertising of food products, soft wheat flour is defined as:

The product obtained from the milling and subsequent purification of soft wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities.

What is the difference between durum wheat and soft wheat?

Durum wheat and soft wheat are distinguished primarily visually. The durum wheat grains are translucent, glassy, and very compact, while the soft wheat grains are opaque and softer to the touch. Another difference between soft wheat and durum wheat lies in their use in food production.

Nutritional Differences Between Soft Wheat and Durum Wheat

Analyzing the nutritional values, it can be noted that durum wheat flour is slightly higher in calories than soft wheat flour: 330 kcal for durum wheat and 321 kcal for soft wheat per 100 g of product. The data on lipids is interesting, as it is nearly three times higher in durum wheat flour, with 2.8 g of fat compared to the single gram of fat in soft wheat flour. Durum wheat flour also has a lower glycemic index.

Pasta, Bread, and Pizza: What Comes from Wheat Flour?

While durum wheat is primarily used to make the beloved pasta and some baked goods, such as semolina bread, the baking world uses soft wheat, which is further classified into three subcategories:

  1. hard soft wheat;
  2. medium soft wheat;
  3. soft soft wheat.

Hard soft wheat is used for high hydration and long fermentation doughs and is very high in protein; medium soft wheat is the classic product used for direct doughs, while soft soft wheat is used in small pastry (e.g., tarts or cookies).

Fra Diavolo Pizza with a mix of high-quality wheat flours

The Strength of Flour: What It Is and How to Measure It

The strength of flour is crucial for the final yield of any type of leavened dough and is measured by its ability to absorb water during kneading and to retain carbon dioxide during fermentation. Each preparation requires its specific flour. But which one to use? Above all, how do you recognize the protein strength of flour?

Check the Label!

The first recommendation is to rely on the nutritional table on flour packages, which indicates the grams of protein present per 100 g of product. The higher the protein content, the greater the strength of the flour, and the better it will hold up in a dough that requires several hours of fermentation.

The “W” Value and the Chopin Alveograph

There is a scientific method to define the strength of flour. The alveograph, invented by Marcel Chopin, is a device where an unfermented dough disk is subjected to stress by a jet of compressed air, simulating the maximum point of fermentation and the ability of the dough to retain gas.

Under this pressure, the dough reaches a breaking point, and an alveogram is produced, showing the values P (maximum pressure reached) and L (maximum extension reached).

Dividing these two values gives the coveted W value, the unit of measurement for flour strength.

Generally, flours with a W between 310 and 370 are used for making large leavened products like panettone, pandoro, croissants; flours with a W between 250 and 310 are used in regular baking for both direct and indirect doughs; flours with a W between 250 and 160 are used for direct dough s and are typically used for products with shorter fermentation times, such as tarts and cookies.

The Wheat Cultivation Cycle

In Italy, wheat cultivation is one of the cornerstones of the agri-food economy. From North to South, there are many regions dedicated to the cultivation of golden ears, making our country the leading producer of durum wheat in the European Union.

Generally, wheat sowing occurs in the early autumn weeks to take advantage of the temperate climate that allows optimal sprout development. During the winter months, the plant will remain small and will almost look like a field of simple grass. It is with the increase in spring temperatures that the growth phase begins: stems form and height growth continues progressively with the rise in heat.

The wheat plant has a flexible and sinuous stem, accompanied by foliage, with the ear located at the top. The ear blooms in late spring; after adequate maturation and drying, it turns golden, ready for harvesting and is especially filled with many wheat kernels.

What is a wheat kernel made of?

So small, yet it contains an entire world within: the wheat kernel measures between 6 and 8 millimeters in length and 4 in thickness, but it has three distinct sections, each undergoing a specific processing and playing a role in the production of flour.

1. Pericarp or bran: the outer part of the wheat kernel

The outermost part is the pericarp, which covers the kernel and constitutes 10% of the total weight of the kernel. The pericarp is colloquially known as bran and is rich in cellulose, vitamins, and carotenoids. Bran is removed during the cleaning phases as it can spoil the processed product, but if pretreated with toasting, it can be added to the milling mix to produce excellent wholemeal flour.

2. Flour is obtained from the endosperm!

The endosperm or albumen is the part that makes up 80% of the kernel's weight and is the most important for the wheat food use. Extremely rich in starch, proteins, carbohydrates, and soluble dietary fibers, the endosperm is the nutrient reservoir for germination and is ground repeatedly until the much-desired wheat flour is obtained.

3. The heart of the wheat kernel: the germ

The germ is the vital part of the wheat kernel. Small but rich in proteins, vitamins, and fats, the germ, like the bran, is removed during milling as it can cause rancidity. However, if pretreated properly, it imparts elasticity and usability to the dough.

From kernel to flour: the wheat milling process

The milling process that leads to the production of wheat flour starts with the preliminary cleaning of the ears, followed by a storage phase in silos before the actual processing begins. The first step is conditioning the wheat kernels, which are moistened with water at a temperature of 35°-40° to soften them.

The second step is meticulous cleaning, which involves removing microscopic impurities such as awns, embryo, and pericarp using the de-awner and dehusking machine, followed by suction.

The third step begins the wheat milling: the endosperm is passed through rollers or milling machines that rotate at different speeds, crushing the kernel. The milling is repeated until the desired granularity for the final product is achieved, with each machine cycle followed by sifting to further refine the flour.

The duration and intensity of the milling depend also on the type of wheat being processed: if the protein base of the wheat is low, a refined flour of soft type will be achieved very quickly.

Fra Diavolo pizza is made with a mix of top-quality flours

Our doughs are prepared by combining the best ingredients: spelt flour, wholemeal flour, 00 flour, and whole grains, to give the contemporary pizza of Fra Diavolo a lightness, a perfect crumb structure, and an unmistakable flavor. Try it to believe it: discover our menu and our gourmet Neapolitan pizzas and come visit us at the nearest location to you!

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